Holiday Travel with Bunny

The Christmas season is a time when there is lot of traveling. Unfortunately for rabbit owners, bunnies do not handle traveling well. They are not like a cat where you can hire somebody to come over once a day to feed and scoop the cat box, or a dog which is more easy to bring (or can easily have a dog sitter). Rabbits require special care, need to be able to hop around for exercise, and grooming. Because careful bunny sitters can be rather hard to find many people may need to opt to bring bun with them. Again, rabbits can die very easily from stress, so travel is not really a good option.

CAR TRAVEL:
Bunny could handle this if it's not a very long car ride (meaning under 2 hours). But too long of a car ride can be quite traumatic for such a small animal! Things like bad air circulation, bumps, loud traffic, and/or inside care noise can contribute to bunny becoming sick or very stressed. If you have no choice but to travel with bunny in a car:

1. Bunny needs to be in a secure animal crate with fresh water (in a bunny water bottle). (And some hay).
2. Familiar things inside the crate like a few toys and comfy towel may help ease some of her anxiety. 
3. Prepare to make frequent rest stops to give her a break from car sickness and road bumps (beware of taking her out to hop around even on a leash. Wild critters that have gone #1 and #2 on the grass can make bunny fatally sick if she eats it, or she can get ticks. So basically, do not take bunny out for a walk in a rest area! Open the trunk and let her sit there so she can get a breeze).
4. Keep the air circulation good. Close windows if there is bad car exhaustion, loud noise, etc. If it is cold outside make the care warm but not too warm. Keep it on the more cool side of warm).

AIR TRAVEL:

To be frank, air travel is never a very good idea for bunny. Only use air travel if you have absolutely no choice but to fly her. And I mean that you have gone from Plan A all the way to Plan Z with no other option. Air travel can be quite an ordeal. The noise from other animals, extreme changes in temperature, rough handling, and having to be in a cargo plane since most airlines will not let you fly with bunny, can be extremely terrifying. If the airline will allow you to fly with bunny then do so. If simply must fly with bunny:

1. Keep her crate safe and secure. With some water, hay, and familiar things in it.
2. Take two pieces of paper and laminate them and then tape them to the inside and outside of the crate (with good strong Duct Tape). That way if for whatever reason bunny ends up in San Francisco when she was supposed to be in New York it will have the necessary  info to find you and return her. (The info should have: bunny's name, basic health info, your name, cell number, email address)
3. Try to keep the flight a short one. (Try to avoid those half-way around the world trips).

BUNNY BOARDING:Bunny boarding is good if you will be gone for an extended period of time with no way to keep care of bunny. Bunny will stay in special "animal hotel" and be cared for there. Some bunny boarding places are very good, while others are sketchy. Make sure that look for some good reviews. If you decide to bunny board: 

1. Make sure that the place knows how to properly care for bunnies.
2. Leave bunnies medical information and medicine she takes (if she takes it). Make suer they know how to care for special needs bunnies.

HOME BUNNY SITTERS:

This is the best idea. Have someone you trust, is responsible, and is a stickler for rules to bunny sit. This person will have to come over to your house and feed bunny, clean her cage, and take her out of her cage to play. If you are having a bunny sitter;

1. Give them your vet info and a list of emergency health issues.
2. Medicine instructions and care for a special needs/elderly bunny
3. Teach them how to pick up, groom, feed, and play with bunny.

Merry Christmas to you and your bunny!

~MERRY CHRISTMAS~

&

~A HAPPY NEW YEAR~

Wishing you and bunny a safe holiday season. 

Hope that the coming year will be filled with lots of

happy times for you and bunny to share together.

Enjoy every moment with bunny and be "hoppy"!

"Sometimes the smallest things take up the most room 

in  your heart." --Winnie-the-Pooh

*H A P P Y    H O L I D A Y S*

F r o m   y o u r   f r i e n d s @ R a b b i t C a r e C o r n e r 

First Aid for Heatstrokes

Heatstrokes unfortunately happen all too often in bunnies. In fact, heatstrokes kill more rabbits than illness does! A heatstroke is when bunny's internal body temperature gets extremely high. A fever is also an elevated internal body temperature, but a heatstroke is much higher and far more severe. It is very important that you are able to identify this so that you can help treat bunny in this emergency.

Preventing Heatstroke:
It is not very wise to let bunny play outside on a very hot day. 80+ degrees (or even lower) with high humidity is a recipe for a heatstroke. Bunny should also not be playing in direct sunlight. Not that bunny can't play in the sun, but she should have a nice place of shade to rest in.
But hot outdoor weather isn't just where bunny can get heatstroke. A bunny cage in direct sunlight, no air conditioning on a hot day, or her cage sitting to close to a heater in the winter can all make bunny get overheated. Always give bunny plenty of water (with ice cubes if it's hot), a nice cool, shady place to be in, or a small, simple fan can help keep him cool. (Bunny can also get heatstroke from sitting in a hot car. Bunnies are far more sensitive to heat then we are).

Recognizing Heatstroke:
.Rapid/labored breathing
.Panting/gasping/raspy sounds
.Limping
.Unresponsive
.Laying flat (This does not always mean bunny has heatstroke. Sometimes bunny will do this to cool  off)
.Slow/no heartbeat OR fast heartbeat (again, does not always mean heatstroke. Rabbits do have a      naturally higher heart rate than people)
.Elevated body temperature (bunnies do, however, have a higher body temperature than people as  well)

First Aid for Bunny:
Get bunny indoors to air conditioning, or shade ASAP. Keep a small fan by her blowing cool air on a low, delicate setting. If she is conscious give her some cool water. Take a small hand towel, dampen it (not soak it wet!) with cold water, and wrap the towel around the tips of her ears. If bunny is not conscious or does not seem to be responding to your first aid within 15 minutes take bunny to the vet immediately.

Do not ever dump water on bunny as if it were the Ice Bucket Challenge, spray her with a hose, put her in a pool, or wrap her whole body in a wet towel. This will not work in cooling her down and may shock her body.  

Bunny Cages 101

A cage for bunny is her own little private space. Whether she spends only short amounts of time in it or is in it for longer, you need to know somethings about cages for bun.

Bunny Cages:

.It doesn't matter if bunny is a Flemish Giant or a Netherland Dwarf, she's gonna need a pretty decent sized cage. With at least 3 levels, 3 feet wide and longways, and 3inches of room above her head when she sits up. Some great ideas for a large cage for bunny is to make a bunny condo (great ideas on the internet), or an indoor bunny pen (also great ideas on the internet). 

.Never get a cage with wire flooring. Wire flooring can cause sore hocks (very painful), torn nails, and just a very uncomfortable place to be. (Would you be comfortable walking around your house on wire flooring)?

.Just because you have a big cage for bunny does not mean she lives in it all day. Bunny proof your house so that bunny can have some playtime outside her cage. (Don't you like to leave your house every now and then)?

.As bunny gets older you may want to add ramps so she can get to other levels more easily. Also, make sure the flooring is not super slick. 

Below are pictures of a bunny condo I made. Mind you, I lived in a very small condo when I first made this. So you can still have a bunny condo even in a small space. 

The green litter box on the bottom is the base to
Snowberry's old cage.

This is the bunny condo I now use for Rhosgobel.
I do not have pics of him in it yet.

Tips for Adopting a Bunny: First Time Bunny Owners

Getting a bunny is one of the most exciting things ever! And owning a bunny is one of the best things ever! Maybe your parents have decided on letting you have a bunny.  Or maybe you're still learning about bunnies. Either way here are some good things to know as you look into getting a bunny or are now considering adopting one.

What Size is best?

If you are young kiddo and you and your family are getting ready to adopt a bunny for the first time you may want to look into a medium sized breed or a large breed. Although you may want a small or dwarf bunny because they look so cute and babyish it might not be so wise. Dwarf and small breeds generally have more dental and respiratory issues. They can also be quite skittish (and sometimes aggressive, trust me, I know). They also do not have as much tolerance in being patient with a young child who just wants to cuddle them. Not to say that small/dwarf breeds are bad, I'm just saying that they are probably not the best choice to make for first time bunny owners. Medium, large, and Flemish giants (although big), are generally more calm, tolerant, and less aggressive. They are more likely to cuddle up with you and they can hop more freely around the house since they will be more easily seen, and therefore not stepped on! They do eat a lot and need a bigger cage and place to play, but they are great bunnies! (And they are more likely to be welcomed by a cat or dog since they are bigger and don't look like a toy like a small/dwarf bunny would).

What Breed is good (especially for kids)?
The Dutch rabbit is a good breed (medium sized), any Flemish giant breed (large), Californian (large), Palomino (medium), French Lop (large and very cute), and the Silver Fox (large). Florida White (medium) is also a good breed, but some children don't like it because it has red eyes (silly). Keep in mind that popular rabbit breeds may not be the best for your family because many people will buy small or dwarf rabbits. Remember, dwarf/small breed are not always best for kids. Some small/dwarf breed exceptions are the Harlequin Rabbit (around 5-6lbs), Mini Lop (5lbs), and the Chinchilla Rabbit (5-8lbs). If I had to recommend the best one (in my opinion) for any first time bunny owner I would say the Dutch rabbit or Chinchilla rabbit. Be sure to look into these breeds online and in detail and see what might be best for you and your family.

What about age?

 A young adult or adult is probably best. (8 months or older). They are already past their "teen" stage and don't have as much "attitude". They will also adjust pretty well to your family. A baby bunny is never a good option. Yes they look cute, but they can be difficult to train and you wont have the right experience to take good care of of it. I did get SB as a baby, but there were many challenges I faced, so I don't recommend it. Rescues and shelters probably will not give you a baby anyway. A senior bunny is nice but will likely have many medical issues and may not live very long if they are really old and need special care as they are, well, old. But if you have a heart for old bunnies or (special needs rabbits) then go for it! Just make sure you have the knowledge and patience for them as you don't want to cause more problems for them. Keep in mind though, they also need very special housing and care which you may not be able to give them. Older bunnies (as well as special needs rabbits) are probably better left to the more experienced rabbit owner. They are good bunnies though. Loyal and loving. SB was the best little old lady bun ever. 

One or two?

One is better to start with, as you can always adopt another bunny and introduce them to your current bunny later. Unless you have the money and space and time to own two bunnies I wouldn't get two.  (Of course if they are best friends at the shelter how could you not get both)? Bunnies need a lot of care so one may be enough of a job! 

Look around and see what rabbit shelters and rescues need good homes for bunnies. Maybe consider fostering a bunny for a while. Help out at the shelters. And most important, be good, loving rabbit owner! 

Please never try and catch a wild rabbit and keep them. They are WILD rabbits, not DOMESTIC rabbits and cannot be kept as pets! 

What You Need to Know BEFORE You Adopt a Bunny

Rhosgobel was a dumped bunny. And finding him has prompted me to write this post just for parents.

At only 5 months old he was probably born in March and then adopted at a 1 month in April. A cute, tiny, baby bunny. Hundreds of bunnies (especially baby bunnies) across the nation are adopted during the Easter season. Kids get a kick out of all the adorable bunnies plastered all over Easter decorations, and TV shows. Then they get an idea that it would be so much fun having their own bunny. To hold and snuggle. To show off to friends. And I don't blame kids for wanting a bunny. I was a young kid who wanted a bunny. But too many children whine, complain, and beg their parents into getting them a bunny. They get a bunny (usually a cute, small baby) and then after 2 or 3 months they soon realize that bunnies are ton of work and usually the kid loses interest in the rabbit. So 1 of 3 things happens. One, they take the bunny back to the shelter or rescue. Two, they leave the bunny abandoned in a forest preserve or park (usually a sure death sentence for a domestic rabbit). Or three, the bunny dies of neglect or malnutrition from not being properly cared for. This is the reality for many bunnies during the Easter season and even after. And rabbit shelters are bursting with an overload of unwanted rabbits. The poor bunnies are sometimes euthanized, adopted only to be abandoned again, or live their whole life in a shelter. It is a sad reality for bunnies.

Five of the Biggest Myths About Rabbits:
. Myth #1: Bunnies only live for 2 years so they aren't a long-term commitment.
 Reality:The average lifespan of a bunny is 7-10 years. Although some can live longer. They are a long-term commitment.

.  Myth #2:Bunnies are great pets because they are so low-maintenance and don't need much. 
   Reality:Bunnies may be small but they are NOT low-maintenance. They are one of the most high-maintenance pets you could get for yourself! As exotic pets they require a lot of special vet care, home care,food needs, and living spaces. Bunnies need a lot of care, and time.

. Myth #3:Bunnies are great pets for kids.
  Reality:In all honesty, generally rabbits are not great pets for kids. Bunnies are very delicate and get stressed easily. (Stress actually kills bunnies). Most kids are not responsible or careful enough to to own one. The majority of bunny experts recommend a pet rabbit for kids ages 12+. Not to say that all young kids will be awful rabbit owners, but it is a notable child that will be diligent enough to have one and do a good job. 

. Myth #4:Bunnies love to be held and cuddled.
  Realty:Most bunnies do not like to be held and cuddled a lot. They don't mind a short cuddle time, but bunnies like to keep all four feet on the floor. They also need to be held in a special way because their spines are very delicate. They also cannot be picked up by the ears.

. Myth #5:Bunnies need only a small cage space.
  Reality:All bunnies (even small ones) need a big cage space. They also need a safe place to play outside the cage. Too many bunnies stay cooped up in small cages all their life. Rabbits were never meant to be crammed up in the corner of someones house and life.

Parents, it is CRUCIAL that you seriously consider all the things involved in getting a bunny. No matter how much your kid begs to you, complains to you, and whines to you, do not get them one. A bunny should be a reward for a hardworking, responsible, gentle kid.

Your child should not get a bunny just when they "want one". I wanted a bunny when I was five. I begged and whined. But my parents made it very clear that I could not have a bunny until I showed that I was going to be responsible, hardworking, and gentle to animals. So for the next four years until I was nine I helped with house chores without being asked , read all I could to learn about the proper care for bunnies, and learned to be kind and gentle to the cats I already had and the people in my life. This showed my parents that this wanting a bunny wasn't just a faze, but a real passion for these little creatures, and that I really, truly wanted one bad enough. If any child really wants a bunny bad enough they will prove it to you by obeying the standards you give to them. If they are not respectful to you, your expectations before they can get a bunny, and other animals, then what makes you think they will love and care for a special bunny? A bunny should NEVER, NEVER, NEVER,  be given to a child to try and force them to be responsible and/or good with animals. A child should already have showed you that they are responsible and love all animals. And the good behavior should continue even after your child gets a bunny. It is unfair and cruel to any rabbit to get one when they will likely be ignored, and neglected. Rabbits die from improper care. So your child needs to know (and you too) how to love and care for a bunny.

Your Child Can Get a Bunny When:
1).They are regularly being responsible and taking initiative. This means they do their part in helping with household chores. They need do do their chores without being asked too. They need to do them without complaining and fighting you on it. Remember, how bad do they want it? If they really want a bunny they will show you.

2).They are reasonably knowledgeable about bunny care.  Children who want a rabbit need to learn about rabbits. Parents, you also need to learn about them. If your child is sick or away on a school field trip, then you will need to care for the bunny. There are a lot of books on bunnies and bunny blogs. Your kids can read this blog as it has been made specifically for children.

3).You see that they are kind to animals and treat people (including you) with respect. Kids need to learn that bunnies (and all animals) must be treated with respect. They have to be taught to be kind and loving. You should also see that they are being kind to other people. Not bullying or being rude. If they are being rude and unkind to other kids and you then they will likely be limited in respect for bunny.

Also, you should get a bunny when finances are good, you have a good "bunny-living space", and you are sure no one has allergies to rabbits. There are many other things to consider.

Never be a part of the problem of abandoned, neglected, and mistreated rabbits. Rabbits are a wonderful family member. But they deserve all the love and respect we give one another.

Welcome to the Family Rhosgobel!

2 weeks and 4 days after my precious little Snowberry died, we found little Rhosgobel abandoned in a parking lot at 9pm . My older sister spotted him. I carefully approached him and scooped him up.

Rhogobel is a Mini Lop, about 5 months old, and very friendly. He is a very healthy boy other than the fact he has a tick infestation! (Don't worry, the vet gave him special tick medicine)! Thankfully, we still had SnowB's cage and hay and litter that I hadn't donated yet! We just had to get him new toys and a new litter box.
(If you're wondering, the name Rhosgobel comes from the movie "The Hobbit". In the movie, a group of characters are trying to get away from some evil wolf/dog things. A good wizard helps the group to escape by distracting the wolf/dogs by riding past them on a sleigh of "Rhosgobel Rabbits". They escape unharmed. I'm a big Lord of the Rings/The Hobbit fan)!

Welcome to the family my little Rhosgobel Rabbit! 

Rhosgobel

Lucky I didn't take apart SB's cage yet!

Dealing With an Overweight Bunny

It is all too common for bunnies to become overweight. A long time ago people thought that a chubby bunny was a healthy bunny. We know now that this is wrong. However, many people still have chubby bunnies. And unfortunately this means a shorter lifespan for bunny, unnecessary health issues, and laziness.
It is very important that you keep bunny healthy if you want her to live a good, happy life. You can help keep bunny from getting overweight. If you have a chubby bunny you can use these steps to help bunny lose weight.

How to tell if bunny is overweight:
.Gently rub your hands over bunny. You should be able to feel her ribs without a thick layer of fat over them. 
.The dewlap should not interfere with bunny's grooming.
.If bunny seems lazy, having trouble sitting up, or has a hard time playing for long periods of time, then she may be overweight.

How to help keep bunny at a healthy weight:
.Take bunny out of her cage to play everyday for at least 1 hour 2-3x a day.
ALL bunnies need big cages (even dwarf rabbits). If bunny spends long periods of time in her cage she needs a larger space to play in and lots of fun toys, ramps, and things to play on! (HAVING A BIG CAGE DOES NOT MEAN YOU CAN'T TAKE BUNNY OUT TO PLAY OUTSIDE HER CAGE)!
.Feed bunny the proper amount of pellets. Pellets can very easily make bunny fat (even healthier brands).
.Give bunny hay and water 24/7
.Feed bunny healthy greens 1-2x a day.
.Don't give bunny a ton of treats.  Bunny should only get treats a few times a week and in small amounts. 
.Do not feed bunny any kind of non-rabbit food or any kind of "fiesta" style bunny chow you see at pet stores. These are often filled with bad food for bunny and are laden with sugar and chemicals. 
.You can talk to your vet to see what else you can do for bunny.

NEVER EVER TRY AND STARVE BUNNY TO FORCE HER TO LOSE WEIGHT! THIS IS VERY CRUEL AND COULD KILL HER.

A happy, healthy bunny. 

Remembering Snowberry

On July 14 2016 at around 11:30pm, 1 month before her 8th birthday, little Snowberry went to heaven in her mommy's loving arms.

An old little lady bunny. She was a happy and otherwise healthy girl other than her arthritis. She never had any dental disease, or other illnesses all her life.

A strong and terrible stroke which left her confused, in pain, and unable to stand. My mother and I rushed her to emergency vet care. It became clear that she would not survive the ordeal. We decided to end her pain by letting her be put to sleep in my arms. The same way I brought her home. Safe in my arms, I escorted her home to be with Jesus and my many other beloved pets who have moved on.
She is snuggled up in my baby blanket she chewed up after all these years, in a small white box, buried safely in the yard she so loved to play in. Under some growing flowers and some roses we put there.

8 years of habits to break. Filling the hay rack and water bottle. Cleaning the cage. Taking her out to play in the yard. Feeding her her most favorite food in the world- cilantro! Walking into the kitchen expecting to see a little white bunny in there.

If love could have saved her she would have lived forever.

I know that I'll see her again. It's goodbye for now. Not forever.

My wonderful, precious, little baby! Such a special gift from God! 8 happy, fun years. I'll miss her forever. My darling little Fuzz-Butt. You'll be in my heart always.

"Every good and perfect gift is from God." James 1:17

Mommy's baby girl. xoxo

SNOWBERRY

Outdoor Rabbit Safety

Safety is key for any rabbit, whether indoor or outdoor. Outdoor rabbit safety is highly important because of the exposure to the elements. Rain, wind, and extreme heat or cold can cause bunny to get sick or die if he is not properly protected while he is outside. He must also be protected from poisonous plants, and parasites and other wild animals like wild rabbits, raccoons etc.

OUTDOOR RABBIT CAGE/HUTCH SAFETY:
If bunny is a rabbit that will remain outdoors for the majority of his time then you need to make sure that he can access a safe, enclosed place to hide/play/rest in. Having a good, strong hutch is essential.
Make sure that his hutch is dry and cleaned daily, has no wire flooring, has a minimum of 3 levels, and a completely closed off hide away area. This will give him a safe place to hide should a raccoon or other animal come for a visit and begin to poke at bunny. Make sure that you can access his hiding spot in case you have to get him for whatever reason. Your hutch should also have good ventilation while keeping him safe from too much wind and rain. The cage should be placed in an area that gets at least 4-5 hours of sun a day. A good place to put the hutch may be on a shady patio, or back porch. It is not a good idea to put bunny on a non-enclosed front porch. A sun porch is OK though. A bunny pen is a fairly safe place to let bunny hop around in in your yard. Just because bunny is in a pen though doesn't mean she is 100% safe from wild animals. Watch her when she is playing outside her hutch. Put toys, a hiding spot and water/hay in the pen.

WEATHER SAFETY:
Having bunny outside in bad rain, freezing cold, high winds, or sweltering heat is not only dangerous for bunny, but quite silly on your part. If the temperature reaches over 80 degrees outside without a good breeze, and there is med-high humidity then bunny should be taken inside. If the temperature goes below 50 degrees, with med-high winds, and there is snow, then bunny should be taken inside. Bunny should also come inside during chilly, wet, or really rainy/stormy days. She should also be taken in if you leave the house or it's night time so have a temporary indoor hutch for bunny.

YARD SAFETY:
If you live in a highly wooded area with many deer, wild rabbits, raccoon's, etc. then take extra precaution to keep bunny in a safe bunny pen and hutch. Be aware to keep these critters away since their poop/saliva/pee that gets on the grass that bunny may nibble on can give her deadly illnesses that can be fatal in 24hrs if not treated ASAP. Keep garden greens, poisonous plants, etc away from bunny. Watch her closely and take care of bunny.

A Nice Brisk Walk

Unlike dogs, rabbits don't need to be walked. As fun as walking bunny sounds for you, it really isn't for bunny. There are too many risks in taking bunny for a walk than good things. Bunny will enjoy playing in a fun yard than walking outside.

Why it isn't always good to walk bunny:
1.If you live in a big city all the noise from people, barking dogs, trash, cars, planes, and construction work can all be very chaotic for bunny. Even a brave bunny can be spooked.
2.If bunny is being walked on the grass (or sidewalk) the poop and pee from birds and other animals as well as germs from peoples shoes can make bunny very sick.
3.Leashed dogs that see bunny may bark at her which will scare her and people who may want to touch bunny can be frightening for her.

While I don't really encourage the idea of bunny being taken on walks there are some bunnies who do just fine and like it. However, most bunnies don't like it and do better off in a more quiet suburbian setting. Not really in a city or forest preserve.

But there are some things to consider if you choose to take her out:

.Use a harness never a leash!

.Keep an eye out for dogs. If you see an over excited, loud dog then pick bunny up.

.Don't take her on grass covered with bird/animal poop or sharp objects or lots of trash.

.Take the heat into consideration. Don't take bun out if the temperature is over 80 or under 50. (Consider the "real feel" temperature and the humidity. Bunny also gets easily scared in stroms.)

.Don't use bunny as an exercise partner. This is not safe for her!

.People may want to touch bunny ( who wouldn't?). Don't take her our if she is afraid of people. You can let people touch and pet bunny, but not hold her.

MERRY CHRISTMAS!!!

MERRY CHRISTMAS AND A HAPPY NEW YEAR!

Snowberry and I wish you all happy holidays.

Have safe travels to and from home.

Take care of yourself and bunny.

Be safe, thankful, healthy, and "hoppy".

AS WE GO INTO THE NEW YEAR DON'T FORGET ABOUT 

SOME NEW YEARS RESOLUTIONS YOU CAN DO.

Some things you may want to do to take better care of bunny:

.Grooming and playtime

.Cleaning cage 7 days a week

.Feeding healthy food

Think of how you can better care for bunny.

TAKE CARE AND HAPPY HOLIDAYS!

I love a white Christmas. So does my Fuzz-butt bunny.

Grooming

Every rabbit should be groomed. Grooming includes brushing, trimming nails, and possible bathing.

Grooming is one of those things that you need to make time for. Grooming can take awhile. It all depends on how long bunny's fur is and what needs doing.

THINGS THAT SHOULD BE DONE DAILY: (15-30min.)

Bunny has to be brushed a minimum of once a day. Really it should be twice a day. If you have a bunny breed with long hair then you may to do it more often.

Check her ears to see if there is gunk in there or ear mites. See your vet if there is anything in there.

THINGS THAT SHOULD BE DONE MONTHLY:(15min.)

Clipping bunny's nails are important. Clipping is hard but it is easy to find tutorials on YouTube. 

You can also have your vet clip them for you.

Please do not, I repeat, DO NOT EVER give bunny a bath or take into the shower or pool with you. Some bunnies can get shocked by it and end up sick or even die. The only case in which you should bathe bunny is when her bottom is covered in dried poop. Even then, never fully submerge her. Just get her tush and then dry her very well. Do not use human shampoo, conditioner, or soap. You can help keep her clean by cleaning her cage often, letting her play outside her cage, and grooming her. 

I'm Bunnysitting

This is one of those things that has to be discussed before you get a bunny. Whose going to take care of bunny while you're away from home?  Bunnies aren't like cats where you can have somebody come once a day to feed and that's that. If you have a bunny sitter then they'll have to clean out the cage everyday, feed them hay that'll last all day long, and give them some playtime. Bunnies don't have an easy time being on the road. Flying on a plane can be traumatic for bunny if she flies in a pet kennel that she could very easily get sick from other animals, and stress. Most airlines wont let you take bunny with you on board.  A trustworthy bunny sitter is the best option for bunny if you are going on vacation. You could board your bunny at a pet hotel, or hire a professional bunny sitter.

A bunny sitter should be a reliable person who reads instructions carefully. It should also be someone you now well (i.e family friend, cousin), or a professional bunny sitter who handles rabbits. The bunny sitter should know how to properly clean out the cage and supervise her while she plays. They will also have to come everyday. It is a good idea to invite your sitter over to your house so you can show him/her how to clean/feed/play/ take bunny out of the cage. If you have other pets like a dog or cat and they don't get along with bunny, then you'll have to tell the sitter to let bunny play in a separate room.

WHAT TO LEAVE WITH YOUR SITTER:

.Your vet's info and the vet clinic directions in case an emergency happens with bunny.

.Instructions on feeding amounts, playtime, and a page on emergency health problems. 

.Leave your cage cleaning supply where they can find it

.Leave food (and measuring amounts) out too.
.Any medicine that bunny needs and how to administer them.
.Do not let your bunny sitter take bunny on walks
.Do not allow bunny to hop freely around the house, if the bunny is only going to come once a day

Bunny's Health: Chubby Bunnies

Being a chubby bunny isn't healthy. She may look cute being plump but she sure doesn't like it. Being a chubby bun can lead to avoidable health issues. It can shorten her life span and make her more lazy. If bunny is already lazy then being chubby wont help. 
If you want bunny to have a long, healthy life then now is not the time to keep letting bunny get chubby or more chubby.

Causes That Lead to Chubbiness:
Bunny can get chubby easily. Being fed the wrong foods or to many treats can make her chubby. If bunny is not let out to hop around a minimum of 1hr a day she can gain weight too. A small cage with no play toys can make her bored and lazy.


What to do if bunny is Chubby:
Let bunny get out and play! She'll learn to like it even if she is lazy. She may just sit there at first, but after awhile she'll get bored sitting and play. Don't over feed bunny or give her too many treats. Get bunny a bigger cage. She'll enjoy extra levels to hop around on. You can also ask your vet for advice. *(Please read the underlined words as they are links to past posts. These will help you keep bunny fit and trim).

Make a few check up trips to the vet to check bunny's health. Ask your vet what bunny's ideal weight should be.

Spaying and Neutering:What is it?

What is it?
Fixing bunny is a surgical procedure that keeps bunny from having babies. It'll keep them from wanting to mate and is important if you have both boy and girl. You should never have one fixed and not the other. If you only have one rabbit then you can probably pass on fixing him. Unless he starts to show signs of aggression, is very territorial, pees everywhere, or you want another bunny should you get him fixed. Also, never go to vets that don't specialize in rabbits. A rabbit needs a special vet that deals with rabbits regularly.

Benefits of Spaying and Neutering:
.Keeps bunny from having babies.
.Helps aggressive bunnies to be less aggressive.
.Helps keep bunny from having the need to pee on everything (marking his/her territory)
.Can help keep bunny from types of cancers.

If you take bunny to get her fixed take note that the vets may or may not keep her overnight.
They will probably give you pain medication and you'll have to make sure bunny's cage is cleaned out REALLY well. Avoid picking bunny up around the tummy or allowing her too much exercise. She may be groggy or a bit sleepy the first few days after surgery.

Note for parents:There is always a risk in bunny going into surgery and not coming out. Remember that vets are always very careful about bunny. Sadly, mistakes do happen. Although this very, very rare.

Pain Medicine.

Fuzz-Butt and her incision.

Outdoor and Indoor Rabbit Safety

When you first get a bunny, your family has to decide whether or not you will have an indoor or outdoor rabbit.  Indoor rabbits in general can live longer than outdoor rabbits because they are not exposed to as many elements as the outdoor bun. This lesson will help you know what you need to know about outdoor and indoor bunnies.

INDOOR BUNNIES:

Most people have indoor rabbits. An indoor rabbit will live its life inside the house. An indoor bunny can hop in the yard if you have one but the cage and main living space is inside. A bunny that lives inside the house should have a large cage and a safe spot to play in indoors ( i.e a spare bedroom or an area in a finished basement). The bunny's cage should be in an area of the house that is somewhat exposed to main family areas (like a rec room, office etc) so bunny doesn't get lonely but also in a quiet area so she doesn't get stressed out by noise. One thing that many indoor rabbit owners do is put the cage in a spare room with a few windows, and then make an entire "Bunny Room". The bedroom door would be replaced with a baby gate. Bunny could hop freely around the "Bunny Room" and then be put in her cage overnight. You can find great rabbit room ideas online!

OUTDOOR RABBITS:

Outdoor rabbits live there lives outside. On a back porch/patio, or in the yard. Even so, an outdoor rabbit will need to come inside sometimes (like in bad, hot, or cold weather) so a cage should be available inside your house. If bunny will live outside then you need to make sure that her cage (or hutch as it is sometimes called) is safe and secure. It will need to be very big. At least 3 levels and a safe hiding spot for her safety. Just make sure that you can reach her hiding spot if you need to get her. The hutch should get at least 4 hours of sun a day and she should have an extremely safe rabbit pen to play in. Your yard will have to be rabbit proofed. Make sure that bunny is safe from predators like raccoons, possums, and wolves. She shouldn't play with wild rabbits or be near them as they carry illnesses that can make bunny sick.
You can find rabbit pens and rabbit hutches online as well!

A Healthy Bunny is a Happy Bunny

If you keep bunny healthy then she can live a long and happy life! Bunnies need special care and have many needs. If you know what things can help keep her healthy then you can have her for a long time. Here are ways that you can make sure bunny stays happy and healthy.

ENVIRONMENT:
Bunnies need an environment that doesn't have a ton of noise, no "enemy", and a cage in a good place. Noise can stress bunny out a lot so don't play loud music around her or have a party in the area her cage is in. Try to keep bunny's cage in a place that is not a main highway for your family but so she does have some time around you all so she doesn't get lonely. Put her cage in a place that has sunlight, but no direct sunlight. Also, make sure that if bunny lives outdoors there are no ways for her or anything else to come in or out. If bunny is kept outdoors make sure you bring her in for the night and take her inside if it is above 80 degrees or below 50 degrees. Make sure her cage is safe and secure.

FOOD:
Make sure that bunny gets a small amount of treats and fruit and a good amount of veggies and hay. Certain types of veggies are not good for bunny. Feed her a mixture of some greens 2x a day. Water is also important give her clean water with no chemicals or human water sweeteners. If you feed bunny pellets only give them to her once a day and in a small amount.

EXERCISE:
Bunny needs at least 2-3hrs of playtime a day. Bunny also needs safe toys in her cage to encourage playing. Beware of toys that have lots of dye in them. Some of the chemicals in the dye can be toxic to her. Give bunny some empty toilet paper rolls to chew on. They are safe toys and good for her teeth health. Let bunny play on floor that is not slippery. She shouldn't play on carpet that she could chew. Never give her a box filled with sand, newspaper, or cat litter to dig in. She should also have plenty of things to hop over and climb on to encourage fun play and exercise.

HEALTH CARE:
Give bunny a daily health check to see if anything is wrong. If you notice that bunny seems sick or depressed then take her to the vet. You can also take bunny to the vet once every 3 months for a check up or whenever you feel the need to.

Handling Bunny's Sweet Tooth

All bunnies have a sweet tooth. Some have more of a sweet tooth than others, though.

Making sure bunny has healthy food is essential. Good food keeps bunny strong, and happy. Too many treats will make bunny sick, chubby, and she may end up with health issues and die at an early age.

What you may think isn't a treat and is just a "healthy snack" might not be.

Common things that people call "rabbit friendly food" are any kind of rabbit "fiesta" mix and pellets (depending on the brand). "Rabbit friendly" fiesta mix often has things that are bad for bunnies. They have things like seeds, extra sugar, and honey. Never feed bunny something that isn't meant for rabbits! Pellets were meant to get bunnies fat. Yup. That is the truth. Now, however, pellets are made better and healthier. Still, if you give bunny too much of even a good brand, she could get chubby. If bunny has never had pellets before, then don't give them to her. Pellets are generally pretty sweet (even fairly good pellet brands) so bunnies like them as treats. A bunny should be given pellets only once a day. A large bunny can have have 1/2 a cup. A small bunny can have a 1/4 cup. I only give Snowberry 3tsp. because she is extremely lazy. I know that she would get chubby overnight if I gave her more than that!

Good treats for bunny are carrot tops and carrots (half a carrot is good for a big bunny, a baby carrot is good for a small bunny). Apple slices, and papaya chunks are healthy and great. (No seeds for either fruit as they're toxic)! Don't buy fancy store bought papaya chunks, buy the papaya at a store where it is cheaper.

Papaya is a very healthy sweet treat for bunnies. The papaya is good for poop health and digestive health. Papaya is a great first aid for pearl poops. 
You can buy papaya at the store, cut it up into small cubes, and then freeze some in the freezer. If you freeze them then you can thaw some out if you want to give them too her. Do not feed bunnies the seeds of papaya as they are toxic!

Signs of Poor Health

Bunnies don't like to show it when their sick. Because of this it can be very hard to tell if bunny is sick.
It doesn't matter how well you know bunny, she'll hide as best he can. There are things we'll never know about our bunnies (and people!) no matter how well we know them. However, knowing bunny well can help you to identify bad health in bunny.

Know Your Bunny's Likes:
By recognizing what bunny likes you can see if poor health affects that. Does she like to eat and is not eating? Does she love to hop and play and is suddenly too weak to play? You get the idea, right?

Know Your Bunny's Behavior:
If you know how bunny behaves around certain people, noises, and/or situations you can see how her behavior will be affected by poor health. Does she like to be around people and suddenly is lethargic? Is she most often happy and sweet and now seems aggressive and depressed? Seeing her behavior change rapidly is bound to give you a clue.

Call Your Vet If You See These Changes:
.Not eating anything or vomiting up food**
.Lethargic, not responsive or sitting in a hunched position**
.Not pooping or peeing (ALWAYS check the litter box)**
.Diarrhea, mushy poop, or peral poops**
.Poops that are strangely small*
.Hard, doughy stomach**
.Rapid and/or labored breathing** Do not wait! Go to emergency vet care ASAP!
.Loud tooth grinding (either a sign of pain or a happy "purr")*
.Coughing, rasping, sneezing, and labored breathing*/**
.Overgrown front teeth, or lumps along the jaw**
.Discharge from nose and eyes*
.Straining to pee and poop and/or  peeing or pooping blood**
.Scabs, wax or crusty stuff around ear*
.Non lop rabbit with a flopping ear**
.Head tilt, difficulty balance, sudden weakness,** Do not wait! Go to emergency vet care ASAP!
.Sore hocks (red swelling on heels. change litter brand and clean cage more often)*
.Dandruff (possible fur mites)*
.Unable to lift head or support herself. Falling over. Do not wait! Go to emergency vet care ASAP!

**=Needs to be taken to the vet within 5hrs or ASAP.
 *=Needs watching. If it doesn't go away or gets worse then go to the vet within 12-24hrs.

Please view later posts on some of these health issues in detail.

And no----She REALLY didn't eat the cake!!!!!!